California is home to some of the absolute best state and national parks. Death Valley, Yosemite, and Redwood are just a few of the impressive parks with even more impressive views.
Late afternoon light tints the mountains as two hikers trek across sand dunes in Death Valley. Photograph: Beatrice De Gea/AP
Death Valley
Though the name doesn’t invoke too many pleasing images, what will be found here is quite the opposite. Located within the Mojave Desert, in the lowest and driest area in North America, Death Valley gets extremely hot. Even in the middle of winter, daytime temperatures can reach 85 degrees. That being said however, winter and early spring are the best times to visit to see this site as a surprisingly lively and beautiful place with rich and intense colors all around.
Death Valley earned its name in 1849 when a man from a lost group hoping to get rich off of the California Gold Rush died while attempting to cross it. Though he didn’t make it, the people of the Timbisha tribe survived living in Death Valley for thousands of years by moving around between the valley floor and more fruitful mountains according to the seasons. Now, no one actually lives in the vast valley, but it receives many visitors and the Badwater Ultramarathon, a 135-mile race across the desert, takes place every year in mid-July.
Accommodations within the park include nine campsites and air-conditioned lodges, for example, the historic Furnace Creek Inn (doubles from $365) and the Panamint Springs resort (doubles from $79, quadruples $94).
Tip: Visit Zabriskie Point at sunrise or sunset to see Death Valley in a stunning display of colors. This viewing point can be easily accessed from a short walk from the large parking area. Useful Death Valley Links: history, lodging, Badwater Ultramarathon
Yosemite Great Falls, California, the tallest falls in USA. Photograph: www.alamy.com
Yosemite
Found 200 miles east of San Francisco, Yosemite is one of the more well known national parks in the U.S., and for good reason. It is shaped by massive glaciers, hosts ample wildlife, and has topnotch fun and recreational activities. Composed of mostly stunning granite structures, Yosemite’s geographic formation began around three million years ago, when the area was almost completely covered in ice.
Yosemite is now known for its wide variety of activities, such as great hiking, fishing, rafting, wildlife watching, and is a huge hub for extreme rock climbing. The park is a lovely place to visit year-round with each season bringing a new perspective to the magnificent wonderland, but tends to be most crowded in summer. During the winters, various park roads and trails are inaccessible or temporally closed from the middle of November until late spring because of the weather. That being said, Yosemite still stays open for the whole year so winter enthusiasts can enjoy snowshoeing, cross-country and backcountry skiing.
It would be difficult to explore Yosemite as a day trip. The recommended time is several days. Accommodations include camping to luxurious cabins found in Ahwahnee Hotel, with doubles from $360 a night.
Tip: Yosemite is best seen on foot. The Glacier Point and Tuolumne Meadow trails are easy but remarkable walks, or if you are feeling more adventurous, you could try the 7.2-mile walk to the top of Yosemite Falls. Half Dome, a 14-mile hike and hard-to-get permits, requires hanging on to cables bolted in the face of the rock. Useful Yosemite Links: reservations, walking, how to apply for a Half Dome permit
Point Reyes beach. Photograph: Alamy
Point Reyes Seashore
One of California’s few wild beaches, Point Reyes national seashore is the place to go for those that prefer a quiet and serene beach with both maritime and wildlife abound. You’ll find it 37 miles north of San Francisco. No residential development is allowed, and therefore the peninsula is relatively untouched. Tomales Bay almost keeps this expansive 180-square-mile park cut off from the mainland.
Animal lover will find this charming sanctuary enormously pleasing. Nesting sea birds and raptors make their hoes in the headlines and cliffs overlooking the ocean. Tule elk, whom once roamed through all of California, graze on the northern end of the peninsula. Though it’s a year-round destination, Point Reyes gets especially busy from late December to mid-March, due to the massive grey whale migration. The 20,000 something whales are on their way to their breeding grounds in the Baja California area. Coming from Alaska, this is the longest migration that’s made by any mammal.
Accommodations include backcountry and boat-in camping only. Permits are required beforehand as well. There are many hiking trails, both short and long. Earthquake trail (goes through the San Andreas fault), and Kule Loklo trail, (explores the restored village of the Miwok Native Americans) are examples of the shorter ones. Those with more time and energy can take advantage of the 6,800-mile American Discovery Trail, which starts in Point Reyes and goes east to the Atlantic Ocean. It’s the longest U.S. trail.
Tip: Reservations are needed at the only indoor lodging inside the park. The Point Reyes Youth Hostel offers dorm beds ($25) and private rooms (from $82, sleep up to five) to travellers of all ages. Point Reyes Links: campsites, whale watching, hiking
Photograph: Alamy
Joshua Tree
The strange looking trees, a tall species of the yucca, are usually the main focus in pictures of Joshua Tree. However, the real fascinating sites here are the rock formations. Embedded with crystal, the piles of boulders sparkle in the California sun. Because of that, Joshua Tree is a world renowned rock climbing destination. Pros and novices alike are able to enjoy scaling the pink granite rocks.
Joshua Tree isn’t just a place to visit in the daytime, as the stars are extremely visible due to lack of pollution and humidity. The Milky Way in particular is awesomely vivid. Meteor showers, such as the Orionids in October, the Leonids in November, or the Geminids in December are truly an indescribable experience when viewed from within the park. Located in the Mojave Desert, summers are practically unbearable, but the weather in all other seasons are prime time for visiting.
There are nine campsites from which to choose from, all in different locations. Black Rock and Cottonwood are the only two that provide running water, with none offering RV hookups. The park is very close to Twenty-nine Palms and Palm Springs, where a range of air-conditioned accommodations can be found.
Tip: There is a 7.2-mile loop trail to the Lost Palms Oasis, a rather difficult but rewarding along the same path of an ancient Native American trail that leads to an oasis hidden in a boulder canyon. What’s more, you might see some big-horned sheep roaming about. Joshua Tree Links: trails, camping, climbing and routes; climbing guides: joshuatreerockclimbing.com, cliffhangerguides.com, joshuatreeguides.com
Photograph: Alamy
Lassen Volcanic National Park
Lassen Volcanic National Park is northern California’s version on the world-famous Yellowstone national park in Wyoming, and is located 50 miles east of Redding, CA.
Only two volcano’s have erupted in the continental U.S. within the 20th century, and Lassen was one of them in 1915. (The other was Mount Saint Helens in 1980 in Washington.) Lassen Peak, which is 10,462-foot wide, is the largest volcanic dome in the world. Following the blast that had consequently destroyed large areas of surrounding land, a national park was created with the idea to preserve the devastated areas for future observation and study. Now, nearly 100 years later, visits remind us of the power of the Earth to heal itself. Although there still are many volcanic deposits, in between the hardened rock the fauna and flora are thriving.
In the summer, hikers and walkers can take advantage of the over 150 miles of hiking trails Lassen has to offer. They lead to different and interesting volcanic features such as Sulphur Works and Bumpass Hell, which are the park's largest hydrothermal feature. In the winter, Lassen turns into a winter wonderland as it can receive up to 900 inches, or 75 feet, of snow in one season. Snowshoers, cross-country and backcountry skiers alike enjoy the park during this time. Lassen Volcanic national park has eight seasonal campsites and country cabins available at Manzanita Lake from May to October.
Tip: There are photography, geology and birding workshops offered through the non-profit Lassen Association's Field Seminar Program. It’s worth it to sign up for one! Lassen Links: hiking, camping and cabins, Lassen Association
Photograph: Alamy
Sequoia and Kings Canyon
Sequoia and Kings Canyon are actually two separate national parks, making it convenient for those who have a California park checklist. They are relatively close to Yosemite as well, are co-managed, and share a border and an entrance fee ($5 for each). Both offer lodges and campsites, but they are rather remote and inaccessible by car so to see them, you’ll have to do a bit of hiking.
Sequoia wins having the largest tree in the world contest with General Sherman. Even though Redwoods are taller, giant sequoias are extremely massive. General Sherman's trunk has a volume of 1,487 cubic meters and is over 2,000 tons. The John Muir Trail runs through Sequoia and Kings Canyon on its way up to Yosemite, but Sequoia gets to claim the portion that has Mt. Whitney, the highest summit on the U.S. mainland.
Kings Canyon national park has Kings river and San Joaquin river running through, both which are known for being two of the most scenic and untouched rivers in California.
Tip: The Giant Forest in Sequoia national park is home to five of the 10 largest trees in the world, General Sherman being one of them. These 3,500-year old sentinels can be admired along the 40 miles of trails that wind through the woods. Sequoia and Kings Canyon Links: hiking, camping, lodging, John Muir Trail
Photograph: David Muench/Corbis
Pinnacles
Pinnacles is the most recent addition to the national park system. It is 40 miles southeast of Salinas and consists of dramatic cliffs, spires, and canyons that are actually what’s left of an ancient volcano. The volcano’s original location was 150 miles away, but the movement created by the San Andreas Fault led it to where it is now. The enormous walls draw bats, falcons, and the California condor, one of the rarest birds in the world. The condor is a type of vulture and the largest bird in North America. Poaching, poisoning and habitat destruction unfortunately rendered the bird extinct in the wild in 1987. However, there have been captive breeding programs that have released many of the big black birds into various parks in Utah, Arizona, and California. In 2012, Pinnacles was home to 32 wild condors according to the count.
There are two campsites in the park, one on the east side and one on the west. The eastern site is more developed. There are no roads that go directly through the middle of the park, which helps Pinnacles keep it’s wild environment.
Tip: Don't miss the unique talus caves, found in Bear Gulch to the east and Balconies Cave to the west. The passages between the rocks were formed by boulders that fell into the steep canyons, and the caves host Towson's big-eared bats. Therefore, these caves may be closed during birthing season or after rains that bring high water levels. Pinnacles Links: condors recovery program, climbing, camping, caves
Basalt columns at Mammoth Lake, Devil's Postpile national monument. Photograph: Alamy
Devil’s Postpile
At first glance, the Devils Postpile may have you thinking that a crazy sculptor might have gone too far, but actually it’s one of the best examples of columnar basalt, which is rather rare. It is near Mammoth Lakes on the east side of Yosemite and the Postpile's 59 feet columns were formed by basaltic lava cooling and contracting at a standard rate, but the lava split along seams into the columns that are present now. They are mostly pentagonal or hexagonal, with a few three, four, and seven-sided columns scattered throughout.
It’s a rather mild half-mile walk from the campsite to the base of the Postpile, and after that it’s uphill to the top. The incline isn’t very steep and it takes about 15 minutes or so. Both the John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails pass through the park, and many thru-hikers use Devil’s Postpile as a place to rest before continuing north to Canada or south to Mexico.
Tip: Do the extra uphill hike to the top of the Postpile. It is only moderately difficult and is well worth it to see the formations up close. Devils Postpile Links: camping, geology, Pacific Crest Trail
Photograph: Mary Caperton Morton
King Range
A map of California will show Highways 1 and 101 go along the entire coast, right? What about that 65 mile piece between Eureka and Rockport? That’s what’s known as the Lost Coast. That section is the longest stretch of wild beach in California and it’s protected by the King Range national conservation area.
Being completely wild, there are no roads into the Lost Coast, so you have to walk to get to it. One entrance is a potholed gravel road, which runs to a campsite located at the mouth of the Mattole river. From there it’s 25 miles along the coast before the next road, at Shelter Cove. Although the hike is mostly flat, walking in the sand will tire you quickly, especially if you have a backpack. Tide charts are necessary to help navigate past the immense headlands. Bear canisters are also necessary for all food, mainly because of the seagulls, which are very aggressive.
Tip: There is a six-and-a-half-mile round trip hike from the Mattole river campsite to the sophisticated ruins of the Punta Gorda Lighthouse. Built in 1912 and put out of business in 1951, the lighthouse and the trip to it could be one of the most beautiful beach walks in the world. The ocean waters are rough and cold, but the area is still rather popular with surfers. Lost Coast Links: hiking trails, bear safety and canister regulations, history of the Punta Gorda lighthouse
Photograph: Alamy
Redwood National and State Parks
Though Sequoia boasts the largest trees in the world, Redwood takes the place for having the tallest. Standing next to any one of the Redwood trees is quite a humbling experience.
Redwoods can live for thousands of years. This fact makes it even more devastating to learn that about 96% of the giant Redwoods that once covered more than 5,000 square miles of coastal California were cut down between 1850 and 1920. Today, nearly half all the redwoods that are left are found in these adjoining national and state parks.
There are four campsites found through the parks, and no indoor accommodation within the park boundaries. Picturesque lodgings are in the close by small towns of Klamath, Requa and Orrick, and there are larger hotels in Crescent City, Arcata and Eureka.
Tip: The easy walking trails through the Ladybird Johnson Grove trail and Tall Trees Grove trail in the southern are of Redwood national park are ideal for gazing up to try to see the treetops. Redwood Links: camping, the search for the tallest tree, Redwood canopy tours: northcoastadventurecenters.com and redwoods.info
http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2013/sep/17/t...
The Original Discovery
James Wilson Marshall was the first to discover gold on January 24, 1848. He was originally a carpenter from New Jersey and found flakes of gold in The American River, located at the base of the Sierra Madre Mountains. His purpose for being at the river in the first place was that he was working to build a water-powered sawmill owned by a Swiss citizen named John Sutter. Marshall later recalls his historic finding, saying, “It made my heart thump, for I was certain it was gold”.
Not Secret For Long
As much as Marshall and Sutter tried to keep the big news to themselves, the word still leaked out. At least one newspaper was putting out the news that large amounts of gold were being extracted by mid-April. Most did not believe it, but when a storekeeper from San Francisco rode through the town with a vial of gold found in Sutter’s creek the frenzy began. The number of miners in the area reached 4,000 the following August, of which was about three-quarters of the men who had been living in San Francisco but uprooted.
The news of fortunes being made and still more to come brought migrants by boat from Oregon, Hawaii, and international migrants from Mexico, Peru, Chile, and China as they somehow got drift of what was happening in northern California. Those on the East Coast arrived a bit later because the press was doubtful at first, but then they too got hit by gold fever and joined the crowds.
The ‘49ers
All throughout 1849, people everywhere, though the majority were men, gave up everything they had, and also what they didn’t have when they went to borrow money, to make the journey to California. They were all caught in the craze and ended up leaving their wives and children behind. Therefore, women began to run the household as the men would (now in charge of farms and businesses) in addition to caring for their children. Thousand of future gold miners, who were given the name ‘49ers, traveled up and down North and South America looking for the riches that only California’s land claimed at the time.
Gold mining towns popped up all over the area in order to house the miners. The overcrowded small towns with saloons, brothels, shops, and other businesses started to run wild with the lack of enforced laws. Meanwhile, San Francisco prospered and became a central city of the new frontier with a booming economy.
The Gold Rush’s Lasting Impression
The Gold Rush definitely sped up the process of California becoming part of the Union. In 1850 California was admitted as a free state. After 1850, the presence of gold in California greatly declined, but new miners still came. Mining in general is dangerous and labor-intensive work. Finding gold required just as much luck as it did skill. With the declension, miners turned to wage labor instead of remaining independent. Hydraulic mining was introduced as a new mining technique in 1853, and although it was very profitable, it destroyed a lot of the region’s landscape.
Gold mining still continued through the 1850s with its peak in 1852 when around $81 million was extracted. After that though, the pull gradually went down to an average of $45 million a year by 1857. People still flooded in and the state’s population by the end of the decade was 380,000.
http://www.history.com/topics/gold-rush-of-1849
